Inside the beautiful new Alexander McQueen exhibition, Roses

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Spring/summer 2007

Left: Flower dress in washed frayed silk hand-dyed ombré petals in tea rose, calico, powder pink, nude and burgundy.

Right: Hand-dyed silk tulle finely ruched and delicately draped over a nude boned tulle corset with a cloud-like tiered skirt in shades of mauve, lilac and violet.

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Spring/summer 2007

The Sarabande finale dress was a mix of fresh roses, hydrangeas and silk organza flowers. Restored with hand-dyed silk organza flowers in delicate hues of lavender, eau de Nil and pale pink, some original dried flowers survive.

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Autumn/winter 2012

An ice pink exploded flower dress made from multiple layers of silk organza, pleated and shredded by hand, a technique which inspired two pieces in the SS20 collection.

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Spring/summer 2013

Left: Silk organza pale yellow hive jacquard dress, hand-smocked in a honeycomb pattern over a silk tulle and net corset with a mix of goldwork embroidery techniques

Centre: Silk organza black hive jacquard dress, hand-smocked in a honeycomb pattern over a silk
tulle and net corset with a mix of goldwork embroidery techniques

Right: Golden Queen Bee corseted tulle dress with an embroidered cage adorned with goldwork
honeycomb techniques, 3D flower applique, gold thread and beadwork.

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Spring/summer 2018

Left: Hand-dyed layerings of petal pink silk tulle, net and washed taffeta strewn with garlands of 3D roses constructed in free-hanging appliqués and satin stitch embroidery.

Centre: Hand-dyed layerings of ivory silk tulle, net and washed taffeta strewn with garlands of 3D roses constructed in free-hanging appliques and satin stitch embroidery.

Right: Paper garlands of roses and petals to be constructed in free-hanging appliques and satin stitch embroidery are placed on the base toile during the design process to resemble the wrapping
and embracing of the body.

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Autumn/winter 2019

A tailored black wool silk tuxedo jacket with a slashed cutaway shoulder explodes into a silk taffeta rose at the hip with a floor-length drape.

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Autumn/winter 2019

Resembling a rose in full bloom, this finale dress is made in Lust Red silk taffeta. The fitted, tucked bodice explodes into a full skirt with draped petal folds, a sculptural form which draws on the constructs of previous designs by Lee McQueen; a black Widows of Culloden dress and a rose-petal satin jacket in The Girl Who Lived In The Tree show.

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Spring/summer 2020

Right: A hand-pleated, hand-cut, spiked flower dress in dégradé flax flower blue silk gauze organza recalls the pleated and shredded organza pieces from AW12. The flax flower is violet blue in
colour, ephemeral - in bloom for only hours.

Left: A toile for the hand-pleated, hand-cut, spiked flower dress.

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